A magnificent Jaguar in the Pantanal by Chris Townend.
- One of the greatest concentrations of wildlife in South America, in one of the world's most extensive wetlands
- The best place in the world to see Jaguars
- With other mammals including Giant Anteater, Giant Otter, Brazilian Tapir, Black-tailed Marmoset and Black Howler Monkey
- Numerous waterbirds including Southern Screamer, Agami Heron, Sunbittern and
all five South American kingfishers - And some of South America's and the world's most spectacular other birds including Hyacinth Macaw, Greater Rhea, Bare-faced Curassow, Blue-throated Piping-guan, Toco Toucan and Scarlet-headed Blackbird
- In early 2019 an incredible 23 Harpy Eagle nests were located in an area of southern Amazonian rainforest in the state of Mato Grosso in central Brazil, and with the aid of viewing towers some can be viewed at eye level; a possibly very exciting extension to trips to Southern and other parts of Brazil.
- Jaguars were a rarely seen jungle cat until the cattle ranchers of The Pantanal realised showing them to people was better than shooting them. To this day the largest freshwater wetland in the world remains the only place in the Jaguars’ wide range where visitors have a very high chance (95% in 2017) of seeing the third largest of the big cats, which are now very habituated to human presence. During the rainy season the Rio Paraguay and its many tributaries flood a huge plain measuring about 200,000 sq km. This is the Pantanal which in the wettest years is fifteen times the size of the Okavango Delta in Botswana. It supports one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife in South America, including Jaguars but also numerous Capybaras, caimans and birds such as Hyacinth Macaws. In the Pantanal Jaguars are mostly seen beside the forested Rio Cuiaba near Porto Jofre at the southern end of the 90 mile long Transpantaneira track which starts near the city of Cuiaba, accessible by air from Sao Paulo. There are about 125 wooden bridges along this track and in places it is little more than a driveable boardwalk in various stages of disrepair, but it does allow fantastic close-up views of the wildlife. The best way to see Jaguars though is from one of the many small boats which operate along the quiet backwaters where the cats like to sunbathe on the riverbanks. These boat trips have been running for many years now and the Jaguars are so used to the boats that they barely raise a whisker at their approach, often allowing amazing views of this gorgeous creature.
- It is possible to see most of the wildlife in the Pantanal in a week or so. If more time is available it is possible to link a trip to the Pantanal with one or more of several other destinations in Southern Brazil, perhaps beginning with Iguazu Falls. These falls on the border with Argentina may not be the highest in the world, at up to 82 m (269 ft), compared to Victoria Falls at 108 m (360 ft) for example, but they do tumble, in what is a series of waterfalls, over a crescent-shaped cliff about 2.7 km (1.7 miles) long, much longer than Victoria Falls at 1.7 km (1.1 miles). They are usually at their best during the wet season which lasts from November to March, especially in December, and have even been known to run dry in May and June during the dry season. There are some good birds too, including Black-fronted Piping-guan, Red-breasted and Toco Toucans, Spot-billed Toucanet, Great Dusky Swift, Black Jacobin, Surucua Trogon, Rufous-capped Motmot, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Rufous Gnateater, Southern Antpipit, Black-collared Swallow, Sharpbill, Band-tailed, Blue and White-bearded Manakins, and Green-headed Tanager, with a chance of Plush-crested Jay and Red-ruffed Fruitcrow.
- The nearest major sites to the Pantanal for birds in particular are: Chapada dos Guimaraes National Park, where it is possible to see Yellow-faced Parrot, Horned Sungem, Caatinga Puffbird, Collared Crescentchest, Chapada Flycatcher, Band-tailed Manakin (at a lek), Curl-crested Jay, Shrike-like (White-banded) Tanager, and Blue and Coal-crested Finches; and Serra das Araras where Blue-and-yellow and Red-and-green Macaws occur, along with Toco Toucan and Lettered Aracari, and Harpy Eagle has nested here in the past.
- The nearest major site for mammals is Emas National Park. This is a very good place to see Giant Anteater, Brazilian Tapir, Six-banded (Yellow) Armadillo, White-lipped Peccary, Pampas Deer and Hoary Fox. Sometimes it is possible to see rare mammals such as Maned Wolf, and even Pampas Cat, Puma and Giant Armadillo (this rare mammal is most likely to be seen with the help of researchers working for the Giant Armadillo Project based at Fazenda Baia das Pedras, a small ranch with a small lodge - a very expensive option). Birds in Emas include Greater Rhea, Red-legged Seriema, Blue-and-yellow and Red-shouldered Macaws, White-winged Nightjar, Collared Crescentchest, Helmeted Manakin, Cock-tailed and Streamer-tailed Tyrants, and Bearded Tachuri. Nearby is Nazare Paulista where Buffy-tufted Marmoset occurs. Other good places to see Maned Wolf are: Paranaiba River Headwaters National Park, four hours by road north of Barreiras de Bahia in western Bahia state, accessible by air from Brasilia, where wolves are seen regularly near South Wild Wolf Cliffs Camp, from where it is possible to visit 'Nutcracker Monkey' Valley where visitors can watch Bearded Capuchins cracking palm nuts with rocks, and Wolf Valley Camp where Hyacinth Macaws occur; and Serra do Caraca National Park where wolves visit food put out at the monastery, though less often in the mid 2010s than before.
- Many tour companies combine the Pantanal with Cristalino Jungle Lodge in Alta Floresta, southern Amazonia, where nearly 600 species have been recorded, mostly forest birds, including Razor-billed Curassow, Cryptic Forest-falcon, Blue-and-yellow, Red-and-green and Scarlet Macaws, Fiery-tailed Awlbill (a rare hummingbird seemingly restricted to a few scattered sites), Brown-banded Puffbird, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, Pompadour and Spangled Cotingas, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Amazonian Umbrellabird, White-browed Purpletuft, Musician Wren and Paradise Tanager. More rarely seen birds include Zigzag Heron, Dark-winged Trumpeter and Pavonine Quetzal, and sometimes a Harpy Eagle nest is located, making it easier to see this elusive species. Mammals include Brazilian Tapir and several species of monkey including Azara's Night Monkey.
- A few hours (120 km) by road from Alta Floresta is Rio Azul Jungle Lodge in Para state, one of the best places in the world to see the endemics Bald Parrot and Tapajos Hermit, while the still rising list of over 500 species also includes White-throated Tinamou, Razor-billed Curassow, Zigzag Heron, Crested and Harpy Eagles, Cryptic Forest-falcon, Santarem Parakeet, Pavonine Quetzal, Crimson Topaz, Blue-necked and Bronzy Jacamars, Black-girdled Barbet, Collared Puffbird, Glossy Antshrike, and Flame-crowned and Snow-capped Manakins, as well as Red-throated Piping-guan, Blue-and-yellow, Blue-winged, Red-and-green and Red-bellied Macaws, Paradise Jacamar, Black-fronted Nunbird, Curl-crested and Red-necked Aracaris, Channel-billed and White-throated Toucans, Long-billed Woodcreeper, Bare-eyed, Dot-backed and Xingu Scale-backed Antbirds, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, White-bellied and Zimmer’s Tody-tyrants, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Spangled Cotinga, Black and Flame-crowned Manakins, Pale-bellied Mourner, Brown-winged Schiffornis, Long-billed Gnatwren, Plush-crested Jay, Dotted and Green-and-gold Tanagers, and White-bellied Dacnis.
- Some tour companies tie a trip to the Pantanal with the Campo and Cerrado Region of Minas Gerais state in Central Brazil where the main sites are: Serra da Canastra National Park where it is possible to see Brazilian Merganser, one of the rarest birds in the world with an estimated population below 250, as well as Giant Anteater, Black-ear-tufted Marmoset, Red-legged Seriema, Aplomado Falcon, Golden-capped Parakeet, Toco Toucan, Campo Miner, Grey-backed Tachuri, Cock-tailed, Sharp-tailed and Streamer-tailed Tyrants, Collared Crescentchest, Helmeted Manakin, White-rimmed and White-striped Warblers, Blue Finch and Yellow-rumped Marshbird; Serra do Cipo National Park where the main attractions are Hyacinth Visorbearer, possibly Horned Sungem, Cipo Canastero and Cipo (Long-tailed) Cinclodes, along with Cinereous Warbling-finch and Pale-throated Pampa Finch; Serra do Caraca National Park where there is a chance of Maned Wolf on the monastery steps and Black-ear-tufted Marmoset, as well as Slaty-breasted Wood-rail, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Orange-eyed Thornbird, Serra Antwren, Rufous Gnateater, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Swallow-tailed Cotinga and Pin-tailed Manakin; and Caratinga National Park where Buffy-headed Marmoset, and Brown Howler and Woolly Spider Monkeys occur, and there is a chance of Three-toed Sloth and Giant Helicopter Damselfly. In the same region is the Bacury Reserve where the rare Southern Muriqui, the largest primate in the Americas, occurs.
- From Minas Gerais state it is not far east to the state of Espirito Santo where the adjacent Rio Doce Private Forest Reserve and Sooretama Biological Reserve protect the largest remnant of Brazil’s southeastern Atlantic coastal lowland rainforest and support Red-billed Curassow, White-necked Hawk, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Black-headed Berryeater and White-winged Cotinga. Not far from there is the town of Santa Theresa where the hummingbird feeders at the home of the late Dr Augusto Ruschi attract a whirl of hummers, including Frilled Coquette. Santa Theresa city park is a good place to see Masked Titi Monkey, Geoffroy’s Marmosets and Common Opossums (on the bird tables at night) and Santa Lucia Reserve near Santa Theresa supports Cinnamon-vented Piha, Bare-throated Bellbird, Sharpbill and many tanagers.
Best Birds and other wildlife in the Pantanal, Brazil
Birds
Specialities Sungrebe, Sunbittern, White-wedged Piculet, Hyacinth Macaw, Black-bellied and Large-billed Antwrens, Mato Grosso Antbird and White-lored Spinetail. Also a chance of Agami and Zigzag Herons, and Nacunda Nighthawk.
Others
Greater Rhea, Southern Screamer, Bare-faced Curassow, Chaco Chachalaca, Chestnut-bellied Guan, Blue-throated Piping-guan, Anhinga, Rufescent Tiger-heron,
Boat-billed, Capped and Cocoi Herons, ibises including Plumbeous, Roseate Spoonbill, Jabiru, Black-collared Hawk, Grey-necked Wood-rail, Limpkin, Pied
Plover, Wattled Jacana, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Black Skimmer, Golden-collared Macaw, Monk Parakeet, Great Potoo, White-tailed Goldenthroat,
Glittering-throated Emerald, Blue-crowned Trogon, all five South American kingfishers, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Toco Toucan,
Pale-crested, White and White-fronted Woodpeckers, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail, Grey-crested (Rufous) Cacholote, Great Rufous Woodcreeper, Red-billed
Scythebill, Great Antshrike, Subtropical Doradito, Stripe-necked Tody-tyrant, Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher, White-eyed Attila, White-naped Xenopsaris,
Purplish Jay, Black-capped Donacobius, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, Orange-backed Troupial and Yellow-billed Cardinal.
Toco Toucan by Chris Townend.
Mammals
Jaguar, Giant Anteater, Giant Otter, Brazilian Tapir, Capybara, Black-tailed (Bare-ear/Pantanal) Marmoset, Black
Howler, Black-striped Tufted Capuchin, South American Coati, Crab-eating Fox, Marsh Deer, and Greater and Lesser Fishing Bats. Also a chance of Puma,
Ocelot and Southern Tamandua.
Giant Anteater by Jon Hornbuckle.
Reptiles, Amphibians and Fish
Yacare Caiman. Also a chance
of (Yellow) Anaconda.
Best Sites for Birds and other wildlife in the Pantanal, Brazil
Best Times for Birds and other wildlife in the Pantanal, Brazil
The best time to look for Jaguars in the Pantanal is during Southern Brazil's dry season which normally lasts from July to October, especially August and September, although they are seen regularly at other times, often on river banks where they go to dry out after bad weather or lie in the shade during hot weather. Water levels in the Pantanal usually peak in February and begin to recede from mid-July onwards until the area is almost completely dry by the end of October. This period, especially September, is the best time for birds and some other wildlife, especially caiman, since they concentrate in huge numbers in and around the remaining waters. The maximum temperature in June-July is normally a relatively cool 30°C, but this rises to a peak of 40°C around mid-September.
Recommended Bird Books etc. for the Pantanal, Brazil
Birds of Brazil: the Pantanal and Cerrado of Central Brazil by J A Gwynne et al. Comstock Publishing Associates, 2010.
Birds of Brazil by K Zimmer and A Whittaker. PUP, due 2020+.
A Field Guide to the Birds of Brazil by B van Perlo. OUP, 2009.
Birds of South America: Non-Passerines by J R Roderiguez Mata et al. Harper Collins, 2006 hbk/Princeton University Press, 2006 pbk.
Birds of South America: Passerines by R S Ridgely and G Tudor. University of Texas Press/Helm, 2009 (Updated paperback edition of books listed next with 400 more illustrations).
The Birds of South America: Passerines by R S Ridgely and G Tudor. University of Texas Press, 1989 and 1994 (Two volumes).
Birds of Northern South America by R Restall, C Rodner and M Lentino. Helm, 2006 (Two volumes).
Mammals of South America by R D Lord. Johns Hopkins University Press, 2007.
Bradt Travel Guide: Pantanal Wildlife by J Lowen. Bradt, 2010.
Globetrotter Wildlife Guide: Brazil by J Malathronas. New Holland Publishers, 2008.
Apps etc.
Birds of Brazil.
Where to watch birds in South America by N Wheatley. Helm, 1994.
Don’t know which country/countries to visit in South America? Then it may be worth considering taking a look at this book, written by this website’s author. It is many years old of course but it still provides a starting point, an overview and a guiding light to the best birds and the best places to look for them on the continent, and could save hours of searching for similar information on the internet. However, it is important to check more up-to-date sources for sites which have been opened up, sites and species which have been discovered, lodges that have been built etc. since the book was published.
Birding and Wildlife Trip Reports for the Pantanal, Brazil
Many trip reports, some for Southern Brazil, are posted on the websites listed here. On some of these websites some reports are independent and some are posted by tour companies who organize tours to Southern Brazil. These tour companies and others also post their own reports on their websites, which are listed under 'Some Organized Tours to Southern Brazil' below.
- The best website for trip reports is CloudBirders
- but these are also worth a look
- Birdtours
- Fatbirder
- Jon Hornbuckle
- Mammal Watching
Local bird and wildlife guides in the Pantanal, Brazil
The costs of organized tours partly reflect the quality of the tour leaders. Some leaders are certainly better than others and many companies claim their leaders are the best but even the best rely at least to some extent on the exceptional skills of the local guides they employ. If you are travelling independently, employing such local guides will greatly increase your chances of seeing the wildlife you wish to see.
- Iguazu Falls
- Iguazu Birdwatching
Accommodation for birders in the Pantanal, Brazil
Some Organized Tours for birds and other wildlife to the Pantanal, Brazil
There are many tour companies who organize tours to see mammals, birds, other wildlife and other natural wonders. The cost of these tours vary considerably according to such variables as the airlines used, the number of days the tours last, the number of sites visited, the number of people in the group (an important consideration if you wish to see such wildlife as rainforest mammals and birds), the number of tour leaders, the standard of accommodation and transport, and the percentage profit the company hopes to make. Generally, where the number of days tours last and the number of sites visited are similar, the cheapest tours are those that use the cheapest airlines, accommodation and local transport, that have the largest groups with the least number of leaders, and that make the least amount of profit. The most expensive tours tend to be those which are exceptionally long, use the most expensive accommodation (ridiculously lavish in some cases, even for single nights) and which make the most profit. Some tour costs partly reflect the quality of the tour leaders. Some leaders are certainly better than others and many companies claim their leaders are the best but even the best rely at least to some extent on the exceptional skills of the local guides they employ.
While tour companies organize tours with set itineraries many also organize custom tours for individuals and private groups who instead of taking a tour with a set itinerary want to follow their own itinerary to suit their own personal tastes, whether it be mammals, birds, other wildlife, other natural wonders or even man-made attractions, or a mixture of them all. Many organized tours with set itineraries are also fast-paced and target as many species as possible, whether they are mammals, birds or other wildlife or everything, which usually leaves little time to enjoy the best sites and individual species, but on a custom tour those taking part can specify the pace and the sites and species they wish to concentrate on. Custom tours also suit people who like to travel with people they already know, rather than with a group of strangers, and people with partners with different interests. Individuals and small groups will almost certainly have to pay more than the price of an organized tour with a set itinerary but a large group of friends may be able to travel for less than the price quoted for a set tour.
Tour companies who run organized tours or can arrange custom tours to Southern Brazil include the following.
- Birdquest
- Field Guides
- Naturetrek
- Victor Emanuel Nature Tours
- Wildlife Travel
- Wise Birding Holidays
- We are a small wildlife watching holiday company based in Devon (UK) specialising in birdwatching and mammal watching holidays across the world. What sets us apart from other wildlife watching companies is quite simple:
- 1 – small group sizes: (average between 4 – 8 people)
- 2 – a commitment to conservation: (donation after each tour)
